It has been an unexpected year so far, yet despite the issues which we all know, 2020 has given space for changes and new opportunities to happen. There is only a little while to go before we bid farewell to this turbulent year so I’ll save my ‘looking back at 2020’ for then -if I can find the words to sum it up. One of the firsts that happened this year was spending my holidays at home. A staycation. So, during my time off, I vacationed with my family in the Paphos countryside visiting different villages. The weather was cooler up there, the stars were bright and the roosters were… loud. The hilly scenery that stretched out from my balcony made up for it though.
Our days were spent visiting several charming spots spread around the Paphos villages. Hidden garden cafes, taverns in squares and eateries with jaw-dropping coastal views. And that is not an exaggeration. It really was that beautiful.
So, I wanted to write a little guide with suggestions of where you may go if you find yourself in the area. Apologies in advance for the crappy photos. August was not a great month for me and for its majority, I was in a bad mood and I didn’t even take my camera with me and ended up using my not-so high-tech phone to capture some shots. Nonetheless, if you visit these spots, you’ll see how charming they are for yourself.
Secret Garden – Panayia village
We reached this village kind of by accident. We took the wrong turn and there was no way back so we kept going. My aunt had heard of this picturesque, little green café in Panayia and wanted to visit it. Plus, we needed a pit stop. The Secret Garden Panayia is tucked away behind the owner’s house, a small oasis with just a few tables. Seeing the garden itself is enough reason to go. The ivy wall – in full bloom during the summer - was my favourite part, so green and tidy. An old black phone sitting on a tree was also a fun discovery as were the homemade sweets.
The café-bar serves coffees (including freddos which you don’t find often in villages), lemonades, juices and even cocktails. What you surely won’t miss is the birdhouse as you enter with all sorts of weird and colourful birds. Their boss and the café’s host? A blonde rooster that roams free. Be nice to him. Sometimes, the owner told us, they hold live music events. It’s a family business and one worth checking out.
Facebook page: Secret Garden Panayia
Instagram page: Secret Garden Panayia
Olive Tree tavern – Polemi village
If you ask locals where to go in Polemi, they’ll all tell you to eat at the Olive Tree or ‘Elia’ as it’s known in Greek. We had been there before so this time we knew to book in advance as August is a busy month.
Served under grapevine you’ll find souvlaki, kleftiko, sandwiches, pagidakia and all the usual. All at excellent prices. Normally, we have souvlakia when we go and they are delicious – even for me, the non-souvlaki-loving Cypriot. Everything is fresh. This was obvious from their hand-cut French fries which I could not get enough of. Residents from nearby villages dine here too and to be honest it seemed like the only lively place in Polemi.
Facebook page: Olive Tree
Tremythas of Simou tavern – Simou village
There are two things I really liked about this tavern. One: it’s in a pretty village square, opposite the church where the whole village hangs out in the evenings. Two: the tree right in front of its entrance is said to be the second-largest in Cyprus. It’s another family business, a young couple runs it and the wife’s mum is the cook.
The food was tasty and fairly-priced. As it was super close to where we were staying, we dined there two nights in a row. The first night I ate stifado and it was delicious! The second night I went for a rather unusual choice when at a tavern but I was craving it. Spaghetti Bolognese. But it wasn’t the usual kind, it was the Cypriot version. With a meat sauce light on the tomato and anari cheese on top, with slightly overcooked pasta. Tasted very local and exactly like my grandmother makes it which was a heart-warming thought.
Kika’s Garden – Kallepia village
This place I’m sure many of you know. It’s the mother-daughter duo – Kika and Marlen – that serves eggs in a large Dutch pan and dozens of homemade breads and jams. Their pictures have been circulating social media for a while now. I’ve been there a couple of times already and love the taste, the gorgeous garden as well as the long chats with Kika herself. Vegan options are available too, just remember to book in advance as they are often booked out! I discovered this place when it first opened and I have whole other blog dedicated to it. Two years later, it’s still one of my most read posts.
Facebook page: Kika’s Garden
Instagram page: Kika’s Garden
Sofia’s Traditional Tavern – Letymbou village
Sofia is another grandmother who opened up her home to welcome visitors. For years, she’s been feeding tourists homemade Cypriot dishes as a collaboration with KOT dropped off foreign visitors at her tavern, a.k.a. her garden. This year, with the travel restrictions the pandemic brought and the boost in domestic tourism, Cypriots filled up Sofia’s tavern. We were one of them.
The menu at Sofia’s is fixed. When you sit down, the dishes start coming immediately. Everything is homemade. From the halloumi, to the bread and the makaronia tou fournou. Everything was appetizing! By the time the kleftiko arrived, we were full. Don’t be put off by the small size of the plates. There are lots of them!
Tel: 97-904922, 99-995961
Koulla’s Sandwiches – Argaka/Pomos
I had heard a lot about Koulla’s sandwiches and the incredible coastal view. Everything I heard was pretty accurate. We didn’t eat as we were still full from breakfast but the toasty Triara bread smelled divine. There was a half hour wait when we arrived, being mid-August and almost noon. Instead, we sat down for a lemonade and enjoyed the striking view. Bright and dark shades of blue sea in front of us, with dirty yellow mountains at its shore. It was simply stunning.
Tel: 96-589533
On your way there, stop by Limni Pier for a walk. It’s worth it.
Periyiali Restaurant – Latsi
Right on the beach serving fresh fish. We ordered baby kalamari, octopus and red mullet. Crispy, fresh and delicious. They came with a side of hand-cut French fries, a Greek salad, tahini and the best of all – thick toasted Paphitiki pitta bread drizzled with olive oil, oregano and garlic! YUM.
Tel: 26-321288
Paphos is one of my favourite regions of the island. There are still so many places to see and to write about but if you’re interested in a tour of the villages and quaint places to dine at, this can be a good starting point. I hope it helps!
